Bali Holiday Guide


	*Ubud*

Everything you need to know about Ubud

In many ways Ubud is considered Bali's cultural heart. Located in the cool mountains, just one hour's drive north of the airport and the resorts of southern Bali, this traditional country town is the home of the Balinese Royal family.

Ubud is also a flourishing crafts centre. Around Ubud the surrounding villages like Camphuan, Penestanan, Peliatan and Batuan specialising in crafts and woodcarving which are sold all over the island. There are hundreds of shops selling antiques, woodcarvings, crafts, textiles, paintings and jewelry as well as some of the best art museums in the country, dozens of art studios, an excellent local craft market, and galleries selling local and international art.

Ubud's role as the epicentre of Balinese culture makes it the perfect place to see traditional Balinese dance and drama. From the early 1920's the royal family ensured that most talented teachers of dance, music and drama were brought to Ubud to entertain the King and pass on their knowledge. Dances like the Legong, Ramayana, Baris, Kecak and Sanghyang (the fire dance) are performed nightly in the village of Bona, just 15 minutes drive from Ubud. Bali's most accomplished dancers, musicians, painters and carvers live in just 10 square kilometres.

Balinese Hinduism remains stronger in Ubud than elsewhere in Bali so it's highly likely you will come across a festival, cremation ceremony or celebration of some kind during your stay. Balinese Hinduism is distinct from that of India and has absorbed the animism of Bali's pre-Hindu ancestors - inspired by the extraordinary beauty of Bali's landscapes - rice fields, mountains, river gorges, villages and ancient temples.

Where to stay in Ubud
The outskirts of Ubud has some excellent five star hotels and luxury villas in stunning locations like the stylish Maya Resort on the river Ayung with its riverside Spa, and Alila Ubud in Payangan. Smaller local hotels and guest houses can be found discreetly situated around the town, enabling Ubud to retain its local charming atmosphere.

Hotels like the Puri Wulandari, Kupu Kupu Barong, Four Seasons Ubud, Pita Maha, Komenaka and Villa Teratai all have a uniquely Ubud flavour.

Budget Accommodation
Shana Home-stay, very near to the traditional & art market and Nomad restaurant, Shana is a place where you feel stay in Balinese family. You wake up in a serene garden-like bungalow with breakfast ready and greetings from all the family members. Total of 3 bungalows, each comes with 2 beds for 3 persons. Breakfast included, starts from US5, definitely worth a stay.

Narasoma Homestay, just down a little lane off busy Jalan Monkey Forest, Narasoma is a family home and accommodation surrounded by coconut palms. Nyoman and Charlotte welcome you into their family to experience life in a Balinese compound. From the top floor you will be able to see the sacred mountains to the west of Bali. 'The sunrises and sunsets are great!

Rumah Roda Homestay and Restaurant, lovely family compound. The restaurant is also a treat - catch the Sunday evening buffet. The book A Little Bit One O'Clock is about this place and family.

Mid-Range Accommodation
Oka Kartini, quirky old Balinese house complex on the edge of town, the rooms here are a bit long in tooth but decorated with more carvings and gold paint than the average temple. Friendly staff watched over by the remarkable lady Oka Kartini herself, large art gallery, small but pleasant garden pool, shadow puppet shows three days a week (separate charge). Fan/AC rooms including breakfast.

Sri Bungalows, centrally located with 16 bright bungalow-style rooms tucked into lush gardens. It's only about 50 meters from the busy road, but it's very quiet except for the singing of birds. The rooms are simple, but nice. They have bamboo furniture, western toilets and hot water. There's a large pool in the back, and rice paddies beyond the pool. An internet cafe is also on the premises. Fan/AC rooms including breakfast.

High-Range Accommodation
Barong Resort and Spa nestled in the paddy fields of Ubud, the resort provides both accommodation and spa facilities that reflect Bali's tranquility. Offering 5 star hotel rooms.

Bumi Ayu Villa, a two storey, two bedrooms, bungalow in the forest on a cliff overlooking the river behind the village of Sebatu. Sebatu is on the road from Ubud to Kintamani.

Villa Vajra, a 3 bedroom villa located right in the heart of Ubud.

The Viceroy Bali is a luxury resort situated 5 min by car from the center of Ubud and offers private villas with pools, satellite TV, bath, shower, king beds, free broadband internet access and helicopter transfers.

Elite Havens, this villa agency provides a wide range of private luxury villas for rental with staff in Ubud and other locations on the island. All villas are fully staffed and feature private swimming pools.

Bale Bali, this private villa agency provides a wide range of private staffed villas for rental in Ubud and other locations in Bali. From budget private villas to luxury villas. All private villas are fully staffed and feature private swimming pools.

Bukit Naga, a 6 bedroom private villa with a full staff and private car.

Villa Alamanda, a 3 bedroom staffed villa of classic Bali design.

Como Shambhala Estate, formerly the Begawan Giri Estate. About a 15 minute drive from Ubud. Private residences, the ultimate in luxury.

Sightseeing
Visit the Ubud Monkey Forest - a natural forest reserve popular with both locals and tourists. Inhabited by wild monkeys (don't even think about petting them) who will steal your camera, bananas, handbags, toupes, etc. These mischievous monkeys provide lots of entertainment. Interesting meandering paths lead to charming places like the bathing temple surrounded by lush remnants of ancient forest.

Just off the main square a lovely arched stone bridge leads to the Hindu elephant-headed Lord Ganesh overlooking a small, square, moss-covered pool where several koi swim at his feet.

What to do in Ubud
Go whitewater rafting down the breathtaking Agung Gorge about half an hour outside Ubud centre.

Ubud is an easy place to walk around. The main streets are lined with local shops and restaurants, studios, gift shops and galleries. Browse the art shops and take a leisurely stroll around the town. Ubud has few sights within walking distance, and you'll need some form of transport to get to the temples in the vicinity. The easiest option is to join a tour, or just charter a taxi/bemo for a few hours.

Museum Puri Lukisan (Museum of Fine Arts), Jl. Raya Ubud (spot the sign and cross the bridge to enter)Three buildings showcasing traditional and modern Balinese art. The displays are musty and English labeling is a little spotty, but some of the works, particularly the carvings, are quite amazing
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Monkey Forest at the south end of Jl. Monkey Forest. A forest full of ravenous monkeys, so don't bring any food or risk bites and rabies injections. Stroll through to find Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, a Temple of the Dead.

Botanic Gardens, Kutuh Kaja. The recently opened Botanic Gardens is a wonderful way to spend a few hours walking around and exploring the valley that it fills. It is best to go in the morning and avoid the afternoon heat.

Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women, Jalan Sriwedari 2B, Banjar Taman, Ubud. The Seniwati Gallery features art by women; "Seni" is Indonesian for "art" and "Wati" means "women".

Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), 3 km east from Ubud. A popular little excursion from Ubud, the centerpiece here is a cave, whose entrance is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni (phallus and vagina) statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Statues stand guard around pools near the entrance and a little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields and some Buddhist stupa fragments.

Gunung Kawi (Poet Mountain), Tampaksiring, 18 km northeast from Ubud. Dating from the 11th century, this is presumed to be the burial complex of King Anak Wungsu and his many wives. Reached by climbing down 371 steps, the location at the bottom of a steep valley lined with paddy fields is stunning. The smaller complex on the south side of the river is presumed to be for the king's wives, while the larger complex is thought to be for the King himself and perhaps his concubines. You must take off your shoes before entering into the central pura complex. About one km downstream there are further tomb cloisters. On the way back up, take a break at Cafe Kawi, which has cold drinks

Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring, 20 km northeast from Ubud. One of the holiest temples on Bali, built around hot springs that now bubble eerily in the central courtyard. Balinese themselves come here to bathe and purify themselves physically and spiritually, and during Galungan the sacred barong masks are bathed here. The complex dates to 960, but the present buildings are all modern reconstructions.

As a center of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night and plenty of spas for resynchronizing your healing chakras.

Between Sanur and Ubud The road to Ubud from the south passes a series of small towns which specialize in the production of particular arts and crafts, including Batubulan (stone carving), Celuk (jewelry), Batuan (painting), and Mas (wood carving). The area has many large showrooms where arts and crafts in the Balinese style are offered for sale.

Nearly all organized day-tours of central Bali stop at one or more of these showrooms (and the tour operators usually have a financial tie-up with the places where they stop, collecting a commission on purchases.) Even individual taxi drivers have their preferred stops.

The area is sometimes referred to as the "craft villages" of Bali, though the area is a bit more built-up and congested than one might infer from the term "village." The whole scene has become rather commercialized. But still it's the best area to see a wide variety of the best Balinese craftwork in a short period of time.

Around Ubud
Peliatan: Located between Ubud and Mas, Peliatan is the traditional centre of music, and dance.

Batubulan: A small town on the road to Ubud famous for its excellent stone carvers. Workshops are located all along the roadside and visitors are welcome to see the carvers at work. Local legend states that all the men from teenagers to old men are accomplished carvers.

Traditional Dance & Cultural Performances
Ubud is one of the best places to see traditional dance and drama accompanied by superb traditional orchestras. For information on performances, transport schedules, temple festivals, and special activities, inquire at the Ubud Tourist Information Center, across from the Pura Desa (village temple)

Puri Saren and Puri Saraswati, Jl. Raya Ubud (just east of Jl Monkey Forest). Smack dab in the centre of town, dance performances (Rp. 50,000 up) are staged here almost nightly.

Batubulan. A national performance dance Barong takes place there every day at 9:30am It lasts 1 hour. This is a performance for tourists about the everlasting battle between the good and the evil, where there is not much dancing, but more "talking". While buying a ticket you'll also get a description (aka libretto) of what will be performed.

Spas
Ubud Bodyworks Healing Centre was founded by Sri Guru. This centre was established 25 years ago and was the first bodyworks centre established in Ubud. Bodyworks is the home of Sri Guru; his family compound was already a place where many Balinese people would come for healing.

Pertenin Body Care. Facial treatments and massage in a relaxing modern environment. free pickup for two or more from anywhere in Ubud.

The Lembah Spa, offers the best of exotic Asian massages and treatments, combined with the expertise of masseurs in sophisticated European treatments.

Yoga and Meditation
Taman Hati Yoga and Meditation Center, Banjar Nyuh Kuning

Shopping
Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewelry shops. Head for boutiques for higher quality (and higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.

Ubud Market, corner of Monkey Forest Rd and Jl. Raya Ubud. A two-story warren of stalls bursting at the seams with wood carvings, batik shirts, sarongs and anything else a tourist could possibly want as souvenirs. The merchants here haggle with tourists for a living and think nothing of asking for ten times the going price, so try to establish a baseline before you go in and buy. Try to avoid busy lunchtimes when the tour bus hordes arrive.

Eating in Ubud

Budget
Warung Igelanca ("Iggy's"). Cheap and cheerful Indonesian favorites like nasi campur, fried rice and noodles, plus (this being Ubud) a range of herbal drinks, such as Ginger Jive.

Dewa Warung is one of the best and cheapest places to eat in town; serves all the usual Balinese dishes. The most expensive item on the menu is the Cashew Ginger Chicken.

Mid-range
Casa Luna, western and local dishes, sometimes falling somewhere in between.

Dragonfly, opened in 2006, this conveniently located restaurant offers fusionesque "West-East" meals, traditional Indonesian fare, and even a few Mexican dishes. It also has free WiFi.

Gaia, offers a wide range of vegetarian, Balinese and Indonesian food.

Nomad, a long-standing institution that serves up a good selection of Balinese, Indonesian and Western dishes, but deservedly popular is their "tapas" selection, consisting of bite-sized portions of local flavors. 12 tapas with rice and feeds two.

Tutmak, a favorite with the expat crowd, Tutmak offers an international menu and an extensive selection of coffees.

High-Range
Bebek Bengil, (Balinese for Dirty Duck) is an interesting restaurant with paddy field view and nice gardens. They are famous for their crispy fried duck, and some European based menu. They have interesting selections of cakes as well.

CasCades Restaurant, classical French food made with local ingredients. Dishes include Un Petit Jésus Dans Une Culotte de Velours (pan-fried duck liver on onion, date compote with passionfruit sorbet).

Drinks
Ubud has quite a few hip places for a quiet drink, but the strictly enforced regulation that all live performances must end by 10:30pm puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife.

Ary's Warung, don't be fooled by the name, this is a stylish watering hole with a large bar downstairs, complete with sofas and cow-leather bar stools, and a rather less busy restaurant upstairs. Drinks are expensive but generously sized.

Jazz Cafe, outdoor jazz bar with live bands nightly. A limited food menu and an overpriced selection of drinks.